 I spent three splendid days at Kilcowera Station, about 90km south of Thargomindah in the south-west Queensland outback. It is a truly remarkable place - natural beauty with its trees and vegetation, excellent birds -- accessible via a stony and challenging drive around the property. The silence and the solace were a tonic. Highly recommended. Having spent three days at Bowra Sanctuary, I wondered whether Kilcowera would measure up, and whether it was worth the extra kilometres! I headed west from Cunnamulla, and made my way through Eulo (a very small town), past Lake Bindegolly (it's dry and birding is not so great these days), and on to Thargomindah. Just before that town, there's a turn off to the left, and you head down the Hungerford Road - past many stations - to get to Kilcowera. It was well and truly afternoon by the time I made that part of the trip, and the kangaroos - as well as unfenced sheep and cows and a few emus - were definitely out and about. The Hungerford Road is mostly unsealed, and varies from good gravel, to stony sections, to red clay that looks like it would turn to mud custard after the slightest of showers. Luckily, the recent rain had passed, and the road had had several days to dry out. As careful as I was, I almost hit a kangaroo - thankfully, I didn't. But I did have one rather brilliant adventure on the way: two magnificent wedgies were feasting on roadkill as I rounded a corner, and one sat in a nearby tree waiting for me to leave. I leapt out of the car and walked towards it, hoping it would eventually fly and I would get those shots we all hope for. He did fly eventually, but directly away and behind the trees...no flight shots this time, but what a great experience getting that close to a wedgie.  But wait there's more: not to be outdone, the nearby trees were filled - yes really - with a large flock of pink (Major Mitchell's) cockatoos. They were one of the birds I was desperately hoping to photograph on this trip, and here they were. I didn't know where to point my camera, so I just went for it. They were amazing. Time was passing and I still had many unsealed miles to make, so on I went. I was mightily relieved to reach the Kilcowera turn off (only 12km to get to the gate from there) - and later, to the shearers' quarters where the excellent caretakers welcomed me and showed me to a brilliant campsite on the lagoon. Oh my, this was something special. You can see a synopsis of my drive to Kilcowera in this short clip. Sitting by my campfire and watching my billy boil as darkness descended that night was really something special. When you arrive at Kilcowera, the caretakers hand you a plastic folder of information: station maps, the history and excellent detail about the local trees and shrubs, and the birds. I rather wished I had had that intel before I arrived so I could plan my time, but at least I had it now...and you have some it here. I decided to use the overall map to take myself on a drive around the station. This was going to be a bit challenging, but I was up for it. I let the tyres down on the Troopy (as you should when you're on an off-road track), made sure my UHF was on channel 39 (so the caretakers could find me if things went awry), and took myself off for a drive of the main circuit (marked yellow on the map). I could have driven further to the Currawinya National park, but I felt that was a (rocky) bridge too far on my own. I'm not an experienced four wheel driver, but I have seen and heard the messages about safety. I let my neighbours Cheryl and Rob know I was off, and roughly where. They'd done the same circuit the day before, and Rob warned me about the water crossing (oh, I wasn't hoping for one of those!). "You'll know it when you get there: just put her in low range and go for it!"). Great - will do! "How hard can this be?" she said to herself.  The weather was brilliant, and I loved the drive, although I treated the boulders on the track with great respect. I really didn't want to do a tyre out there. I drove slowly with the windows down, listening for birdsong, and popped out often to capture some - spiny-cheeked honeyeaters, wrens, woodswallows. Bliss! The bird I was really hoping for - fat chance! - was the Bourke's parrot. It only frequents remote areas like this, and I knew they had been seen, but not that often. I had had no luck at Bowra Sanctuary, so I was not optimistic. I stopped for lunch at the lookout, and enjoyed the vision splendid of the sunlit plains extended, then on I went. You can see the type of terrain I encountered - and what else I saw - in this clip. After slow progress through the rocky outcrops, the afternoon was well advanced, and it was time to head back...so I made the left turn towards Murder Bore (there's a story behind that name, and not a happy one!). I immediately approached a shallow dip and a slow down sign, so I did... And what do you think I saw? They look like parrots, I said to myself. Sort of dull green ones in the afternoon light. Yes, there were four Bourke's parrots on the tree in front of me. The next half hour was spent mostly standing stock still, venturing so slowly into the bush, photographing their every move. It was such a special experience, my Bourke's parrots will have their own blog entry soon, so I'll save the detail for that occasion. Suffice to say, I did a small happy dance when I got back to the car.  Back in the Troopy, I punched the air and felt invincible, and I also knew it was high time to get back to camp. On I went. Then, oh! this must be the water crossing...gulp - do I go for it, or back out and drive all the way back on the road that brought me this far? I went for it: found Low 4x4, had another look at the ditch ahead of me, and let her go. It's in the clip above - probably doesn't look much on camera, but I wasn't confident I wouldn't get stuck in there, and have to camp overnight in that gully. Of course, the Troopy didn't blink, and took it all in its stride. It was fine. We went past Murder Bore (didn't feel like exploring that spot in the approaching dusk), and made for camp. I was relieved to arrive at camp, and the caretakers were pleased to see me too! Rescue mission aborted! And just when I thought the day couldn't get better, we had a visit from several pink cockatoos and a pair of blue bonnets. I managed to snap them in the golden hour light. Wow! What a day. After all that excitement, I stayed in camp the next day, enjoyed the artesian waters shower (marvellous), that exquisite winter sun and in the evening the communal fire pit with the caretakers and two new couples (lovely people). An afternoon walk meant more bird photography, and just soaking up the peace and serenity of the place. Not to mention the sunsets - oh my goodness, this place has it all. I'll be heading back to Kilcowera...it's so worth the drive.  Next stop: Thargomindah for the Channel Country Music Muster!
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