What's pelagic birding? Pelagic birds live mostly on the open ocean, and if you want to see them, you sign on for a pelagic trip, and take a boat well out to sea. I did just that last weekend on the Port Fairy Pelagic. If you're thinking about it, here's what my experience was like... This trip is (very well) organised by Neil Macumber of Birdswing Birding and Wildlife Tours, and it leaves from Port Fairy at least once a month. I became rather interested in this adventure a few months back, so I signed on for early February, presuming the weather would be kind. That was silly. Read on if you'd like the details, or just watch the video if you'd prefer the short and visual version. So, the trip was $200 (cash on board) and there were 21 passengers - mostly male, some women, and ranging from teens to seniors, novices to experts. We left bright and early at 7am sharp from the Port Fairy harbour on the Southern Explorer, a mighty and modern vessel. I'll admit I was a bit nervous - not so much of seasickness (I don't usually get sick) but of traipsing thirty nautical miles off the coast into Bass Strait and sitting out at the edge of the continental shelf. And of course, if you don't enjoy the trip it's a long swim back. Or nine hours in the boat. The journey out was long and rough. The swell was high, the boat engine was understandably noisy and I felt as though I didn't quite have enough to things to hang on to. That's just me - others seemed fine, though it was obvious some poor folks were not reaping the benefits of their early morning Kwells. Many passengers went up onto the next level, but when I tried it I felt even more vulnerable, so wedging myself into one of the downstairs seats was the best option for me - and preferably out of the spray (hint: wear waterproof pants and top). About half an hour out of port we started to see birds, and even a great show of dolphins. I pointed the camera in the right direction, but not a chance! A long three hours later, the engine was turned off and the skipper and his mate got the burley out - we had arrived. The birds very soon got the idea, and started wheeling around the boat. It was magic! Now the cameras started clicking in earnest, with quite a bit of jockeying going on. Neil and others were excellent for spotting and calling out fast approaching birds, and where to see them heading in. It was chaos - in a good way. Even while we were stationary, sort of, the boat still lurched pretty dramatically, and I felt more secure in my seat. Others had no trouble walking about - but my sea legs just weren't on duty that day. So I sat tight and took photos from where I was, and I was amazed at how many shots turned out to be half decent, given that the birds were moving, the waves were moving, the boat was moving and so were the passengers. This short clip gives you sense of how much the boat was still moving (don't watch it if you are prone to sea sickness). While we were there, the kettle was boiled and biscuits were available, and it was bring your own lunch and eat it as best you could, if you could. I found it very handy to have a snack bar in my pocket. Meantime, magnificent birds wheeled about the boat, congregated in the waves, or swooped for burley - amazing! We saw (collectively) ten species of albatross that day - though I can't say I saw all of those, and I am still going through the identification process with my photos, but here's a selection of some favourites so far. After three hours of all this action, the burley was done, the engine fired up, and off we headed again as the first mate hosed down the deck. The boat was in spotless condition throughout the voyage. The trip back was another three hour run, this time not as rough, even with some sunny patches. Some of my fellow passengers had a snooze, and the birds drifted away. There was nothing much to do for three hours, and it was a good time for some contemplation, processing what I had just experienced. It was also cold and at times wet - I wore layers of clothing, as recommended, but all my layers stayed on throughout. No-one yelled land ahoy, but at about 4pm there it was. We once again had phone signal about half an hour from shore, and thankfully nothing too momentous had happened to us or anyone else I knew in those hours at sea. Port Fairy-ites looked as though they had had a lovely day - sunny and bright, calm and stable on terra firma. What a day, and what an adventure! I'm really glad I did it. I have no idea whether such a trip would be your cup of tea, but for me, I probably won't rush to go again, having had the experience, and having struggled to get my balance on board. But I re-iterate how well-organised this trip was, and how wonderful those birds are out there. Perhaps a pelagic is a birding trip that all keen birders should try at least once. Many get hooked and go multiple times. Don't forget the Kwells, rug up, and hang on!
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